Here is the problem.

Even though I am using 4 lbs of beads in a 2'x2'x6' humidor, I need to spray and re-humidify my beads 1 or 2 times a week to keep my RH in the 60%-65% range.

As a rule, I load up one of my Otter Boxes when I get into my large humi so I open the door 1 or 2 times a week and usually it is to re-humidify and not to get cigars.

I have already resealed the door with closed cell insulation.

Is there a glue or chalk that I can use on the seams that will not only seal the humi, but will also bond and strengthen the joints, without creating fumes that will ruin my cigars?

Thank you for your time.
Ken
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If there is any glass that may be the area of the leak. If you have already used weather stripping for the door then it sounds as if the problem is some where else you can always take into a dark room and put a flash light in it and see if it emits from another area. Its a humi and you are using beads, so you should be able to get in and out a few or more times a week and not be a problem. Is it new and did it get seasoned properly? Just some thoughts. By the way what is the avarage humidity in WA? Or your hygro may need to be salt tested, none of mine work, need to get some new digitals.
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When I was scanning the New Posts list, I read this as "How to STEAL a cabinet humi".

Imagine my disappointment. :-)

:-)
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It does have glass in the door.

I have 4 digital hygrometers and all read very much the same when sitting side by side. When I spread them around the humidor I have found that the lower they are in the humi, the lower the RH, even though I have the beads spread around at different levels.

I bought the humidor used about 8 months ago. It is well seasoned.

As far as the humidity in Washington goes, it is a very green state with lots of rain, so the humidity is on the higher side, but, I heat my house with a wood burning stove which drops the humidity and this has sped up the humidity drop. When I'm not burning the stove, I need to add water every couple weeks, on average.

Another thing about the humi. The person I bought it from, kept another large and heavy humidor on top of this one, which made this humidor lean to the side a little. I have been able to straighten it out by placing shims between this humi and a large, heavy, bookshelf. This didn't seem to change how fast the humidity drops though.

I have another, smaller, (about a 300 count) humidor and a coolerdor. Both of these hold the humidity level very rock solid and I only add water every couple months.

I wouldn't be suprised if most of my leakage problem is around the glass in the door, but I might as well seal the seams inside the humidor at the same time if I can find a good and safe glue or chalk.

Anyone know where I can steal a humidor?:-)

Thanks
Ken
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Let us know when you resolve the issue, I'm interested in your solution
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The best sealer will probably be some aquarium silicone. Also try some weather stripping on the door. But keep in mind that this is the winter so it is going to be dryer to begin with. I also have to add water more frequently this time of year. :-)
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I wouldn't be surprised if the "leaning tower" effect of your new cabinet affected the seals. You could maybe straighten it out and then apply some "X" wood bracing on the back side to keep it straight. Then I would re-seal all the seams with an odorless, clear caulk.
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As mentioned above, aquarium sealeant might be the way to go. Also even though you are in a more humid area have you ever put a pan of water on the woodburning stove. I know many people do this in Idaho, montana, wyoming and kansas because the stove dries it out the air way to much, but then again they are also much drier states.
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I've got an Avallo Accumonitor in my cabinet that measures about 2X2X6. I would say it uses 2 cups of water a week in the winter. I open it about twice a day. So accept that you are going to use a bit more water in the winter. I probably use 3-4 times as much in the winter.

That said, I would use black tape to wrap the corners of the cabinet on the outside. If your humidity loss still seems excessive, there has to be a leak at a seam. I would cover all of the seams and see if that helps. Don't use aquarium cement until you know exactly where the leak is. Plus, I would be hesitant to return your cigars to the humi after using the cement. It has a strong vinegar smell that could easily taint you stogies.
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Thank you for the replies.

This is the humidor I have. http://www.cigarsinternational.com/p...-AV2000&cat=10

I didn't pay anywhere near what they are charging. In fact the free cigars I recieved with the humidor, were worth more than what I payed. I guess I could say I got a good deal on the cigars and got the cabinet for free.

In a PM it has been suggested that I pull the humi apart and re-glue it. This may be the best suggestion, but I'm not sure that I'm up to that level of repair. I will need to really check it out to see if it can be disassembled without destroying it.

As far as the water on the stove goes. I have been trying to keep a pan of water on the stove, but my wife keeps removing it. This does seem to help though.

If it looks like I won't be able to disassemble the humi without destroying it, I think the X bracing will be a must do on my list.

Has anyone used "Gorilla Glue"?
If I don't tear this thing apart, it seems that Gorilla Glue would help add some strength. Does Gorilla glue give and air tight seal and how is it on gassing:-)

I am better off doing nothing, than to risk ruining my cigars with a new infused glue flavor.

I have also kicked around the idea of adding another layer of Spanish Cedar if I can find some for a reasonable price. Do you think this would help or am I better off focusing on the seams?

Thanks again.
Ken
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gorilla glue can be a pain since it expands quite a bit, Its rather strong though and can be scraped off later. You should be able to find a non-toxic caulk. This would be the route I would go and let it air out until any odd smell is gone. Once it cures you really should not have any odd smell. Go around every joint and seam that is not a moving area. They typically use an adhesive when building a humi in the first place and after time any fumes dissipate. The glued joints in the humi now will tough to get apart without damage and then a through clean up afterwards. Just some thoughts.
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Leaks through the "seams" or joinery of the cabinet should be pretty minor unless the cabinet is nearly falling apart. As Footbag says, you have to accept that winter requires more maintenance. Assuming the door seals well, you probably are not going to improve much.

Is this a custom made humidor or converted cabinet? I've seen some cabinets that had a thin plywood back that is unfinished on both sides. This can cause significant loss of moisture. Also, is the back panel securely fastened? Are there any floating panels that could be a source of the leak?

You could add some active humidification for winter, as beads don't have much capacity.
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It isn't falling apart, but if I apply pressure to the side of the cabinet, I can make the door move up and down 1/4" at the non hinge side.

This is the cabinet I have http://www.cigarsinternational.com/p...-AV2000&cat=10

I have another pound of Shilala beads coming and this should help a little, but it really will be a bandaid for the real problem.

My hope is that I can add some strength and improve the seal without having to pull the whole thing apart.
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That link doesn't work, is this it?

http://www.cigarsinternational.com/p...-AV2000&cat=10
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I got this one:

http://www.cigarasylum.com/vb/showthread.php?t=6830

Looks just like yours, but with drawers. Mine came with a moist-n-aire which keeps it solid. Before ripping anything apart, I recommend a combination of beads and active humidification of some sort.
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I have the same humidor. Also use about 4 lbs of beads. In the winter when the house is dry, I use a Moist-N-Aire to maintain the humidity constant. The beads alone will not do the trick.

I do not think it is possible to maintain humidity in a cabinet with a reasonable amount of beads unless you have a high end cabinet, and even those use active humidification.

It may not even be possible to maintain humidity in a wooden cabinet without somehow incorporating a vapor barrier and rubber seal on the door.

Recommend getting an active humidifier to use in the winter months.
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That is the one
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I have another pound of Shilala beads on the way and guess I'll need to start checking on active humidification prices.

DBall and Ca21455
Would you please do me a favor and push on the side of your cabinet to see if it moves?

When I push on my cabinet and look at the upper left hand corner of my door, it will move up and down a good 1/4".

It seems to me that if the front is moving that much, then the back of the humi would be moving just as much and that couldn't be good for holding the RH.

Thanks and have a safe and happy new year guys.
Ken
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Is there a way to shim that door so it doesn't have any play in it anymore?
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Just a thought here...

The door having play when you push the side of the cabinet is not necessarily a bad thing. I'm in the furniture business, and if a door is crooked, the first thing you try to do is level the piece. 90% of the time this fixes the problem. I've seen armoires that cost more then cars do this.
If a humidor isn't level, and the door is not strait, you will likely lose humidity. Make sure the piece is level. Hope it helps.
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