I'm thinking of doing my back guest house in Pergo type flooring. The room is approx. 20 X 25 (500 sq ft).
Theres currently a combo of ugly linoleum and shoddy carpet there now.

Any tips or tricks I should know about beforehand from those who have done it?
I have heard its something fairly easy to do, but I can contract a professional if I feel its way beyond my capabilities.

Thanks in advance on any info at all.
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having a level surface is probably the most important part of the prep. liquid floor levelers are commonly available. Overall, the engineered laminate floors are all pretty good quality, I think.
I am debating redoing my man cave floor with it.
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I installed some of this in a closet. It really is as simple as you have heard. The type I used did not require gluing, some do. Check with your local retailer to get the particulars of the product you are using.

I don't have any specific advice but I'm sure others will.
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The other thing that gets me is why do the prices fluctuate so much depending on the pattern of the Pergo? I mean, its all the same material right? :-)
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We had Pergo put in our kitchen, family room, and entry a number of years (>10) ago. We had an installer do it and they did a pretty good job.

In hindsight the biggest gotcha was the border wit other flooring materials. They have moulding that covers the gap, but if there enough of a difference in height between the carpet and the Pergo, then these moulding pieces do not stay in place and require a lot of attention.

We also had a couple of areas in the kitchen where the repeated back-and-forth movement of chairs to/from the table caused wear marks and in a few cases scratches. We had replacement pieces, but unless you are prepared to take a lot of the floor apart to replace the pieces, they cut out the bad ones and glue down the replacements. This means that your "floating floor" no longer floats... Not a show stopper but something I wish I had known before going this route...
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Think about it this way -

Toyota vs Lexus

Nissan vs Infiniti

Same thing, just dressed up more......
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I've put in 2 pergo-type floors. usually there's a underlayment, then just cut and click. Leave whatever gap for the floating. I say if I can do it anyone can.
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I did my entire great room last Nov/Dec. Hopefully the shape of your room isn't as effed up as mine is:-)

I'd recommend getting the stuff with the padding already attached (attached underlay). Also, I personally wouldn't mess with the type that requires glue. I used the "click and lock" type. It was really easy once after the first three rows. It takes awhile to get comfortable but once you do you're home free. I'd recommend a table saw for the rip cuts. I had a circular saw and used a 3 ft level as a guide but it took longer and wasn't as easy as a table saw would be. The circular saw worked fine for the angled cuts but a miter saw, if available, would be simpler. Make sure the wall you start on is straight. If it isn't then you'll have to adjust accordingly. Also make sure the last board will be at least 2 inches wide. I measured the room and divided it by the size of my laminate to make sure the last board was proper size. It was so I didn't have to rip cut my first row and last row.

I highly recommend a good pair of knee pads.

I used the internet a lot as well as a book by Stanley as resources. Check this site out. http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/artic...ticle_id=60245

Good luck!
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the trick with tall/dense carpet unions is to trim away a rabbeted edge of the carpet next to the seam.
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The only experience I have with pergo floors are with old mill converted into luxury condos I was selling and within 3 months the pergo floors were rising because of the concrete floors and looked awful. Clearly the floors were not laid down properly, but pergo floors are thin and a few boards snapped....that's how hacked the job was. Personally I would rather put down hardwood that has already been poly-ed.

As long as the wood doesn't see any water or much humidity fluctuation pergo should be fine. Just make sure you have someone who knows what they are doing when installing. Good luck!
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Just like at work. :-)
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Really great info so far guys. Thank you.
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if you choose to go with a click lock type floor, make sure that you buy the thicker version. 8mm vs 12.5mm is a big difference, though it might not seem like it. I have laid quite a few floors and the ease of installment is totally different with the thicker flooring. Also, as a professional, I say go hardwood. I hate laminate. Though I do believe it has a purpose.
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Say you have a fairly new house with level floors and some linoleum that someone doesn't care for. Is it possible to lay Pergo right over the top of the linoleum?
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cheaper than hardwood, and for a non critical use or dependent on resale, I think it is acceptable.
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Can be done, but I would still use proper underlay, others may say you do not need underlay though as the cusionfloor acts as a underlay. And you will need proper drop bars where you meet other flooring types(doorways etc)
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Yes.
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Are you working off Cement?
If so this may be an issue with moisture.
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You can buy product to fix that though. Expensive, but can be found.
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IMO, there is no simpler of a floor to put in. The click together is the way to go. I have put in about 6 different rooms. Also make certain to buy the best underlayment. It makes a world of difference not only on sound and feel but also in moisture protection. If you are installing it on top of a floor that is damp, you may want to first put down a moisture barrier. There is a test to find out, if you want I can find the article. I have had bad experiences with the underlayment that is already attached to the laminate. It doesn't allow the floor to "float" as well and it is more of a pain to click together.

The must have tools IMO are:

12" miter saw (you can use a 10", but you will have to flip each plank to cut, which becomes a pain very fast). Or a 10" slider miter saw.

A table saw for ripping the last row

And buy the kit that helps you knock in the planks. Trust me, it's worth the $15-$20.

And a good shot hammer.

There are other tools like a measuring tape, pencil, etc. But that's typical of any carpentry/construction.


As far as pricing goes, there are TONS of different laminates now. Some even have features to mimic hardwood such as grooves and pits associated with real wood. It does pay to spend a little more. Go to an actual flooring store and do the key test if they will allow. The key test is simple, take a car key and whack the crap out of the plank. If it leaves a gouge or mark, go to the next one. Not all stores will allow you do this as they are trying to push the crappy products at a higher margin, so you can just ask them about hardness and if they can prove it. Lowes and Home Depot though, you can whack away all you want.

As mentioned before one of the major factors is the accompaning pieces. At Lowes and Home Depot, they have better pricing and sometimes better product, but the transfer pieces and mouldings might not match up well. (they have gotten much better about this in the past couple years though). The flooring stores usually have a better selection of these pieces to match.

All that being said two important things to remeber about laminate flooring. DO NOT get it wet. Even the top of the line "waterproof" laminate will buckle if it sits with water for too long. The occasional spill won't hurt it, but if the floor is damp or in a bathroom it can over time buckle. Also, you can't just pop out a piece to replace. Once it's in place and say you find that halfway back there is a plank that is chipped, you must take out that whole row or many times the whole number of rows before it to replace/repair. So take your time and if you don't like the way a plank might look, go ahead and use another at that time.
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