I have an Envoy 2004 SLT, about 45,000 miles on it.
Just had the rotors all turned yesterday but all the pads are good.
I did get the "They won't last till inspection" warning though.
The originals were Raybestos Professional Series.
I just talked to my buddy PJ, who owns a garage, and he said there's cheapos, midgrade, high grade and ceramic.
He said a bunch are noisy and ceramics don't last long, or something.
I have to do all four wheels and he said it'd be about 300 bucks for good pads installed. I thought that was kinda off the map.

So...
I need four sets of good pads that won't be noisy and won't eat my rotors (which are nearly brand new).
Any suggestions? I'm gonna go shopping today and see what I'm looking at. It'd be a big help to know what I'm looking for before I go looking.

I even thought I might go with the OEM pads being they lasted so long?
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Axxis makes good pads in various compounds
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I always used Bendix.

EDIT: Disc brake pads are easy to install yourself.
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Looking at Advance auto online, Wagners, which are good, are $56 FR, $63 Rear. So that gives you an idea how much labor is.

I've never heard that ceramic wear faster than metalic pads, but I usually stick with the higher end metalic.
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:-)
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The Four Main Types of Brake Pads

Semi-Metallic

Semi-metallic brake pads contain a mix of 30 to 65 percent of metal and typically include chopped steel wool or wire, iron powder, copper or graphite mixed with inorganic fillers. They also contain friction modifiers that bond all the components together. These pads have a reputation of being durable and of having excellent heat transfer; however, they wear rotors down quickly, are noisy and may not perform up to par in cooler temperatures.


Non-Asbestos Organic

Sometimes listed as organic or NAO, these types of brake pads are made from fibers such as glass, rubber, carbon and Kevlar. In addition, non-asbestos organic brake pads have filler materials and high-temperature resins. These pads are softer and quieter than other types of pads, but they wear faster and create more brake dust.

Low-Metallic NAO

These types of brake pads are made from an organic formula mixed with small (10 to 30 percent) amounts of copper or steel to help with heat transfer and provide better breaking. With the added metal, there is more break dust and they might be slightly noisier.

Ceramic

These are composed of ceramic fibers, nonferrous filler materials, bonding agents and possibly small amounts of metal. They are lighter in color and more expensive than other brake pads and are cleaner and quieter. In addition, they offer excellent braking without wearing down the rotors. Most ceramic-based linings perform well in a wide variety of areas; but for some, other materials work just as well – if not better. Ceramic is not a generic term for a type of friction material – it is a description that covers a wide spectrum of friction materials. The only thing they have in common is that they contain some kind of ceramic as an ingredient.
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Very easy to install...I don't buy ceramic b/c they didn't last me any longer. I would be surprised it you needed rear pads...hell the rears will last you 75k+ on the rears since most of the breaking is done (pressure) on the fronts.... disk break pads for decent ones on domestic cars run about $40 or less for for both sides. Autozone had these lifetime pads for like $30 and when they wear out (which they do) you take them back with your reciept and they hand you another set at no charge. If you need a coach on DIY I can walk you through it.
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My Envoy is all 4 wheel abs, and I think I have to bleed the calipers to push them back.
Rolling around on the ground all crippled up ain't much of an option, either, but I'll probably be too stubborn not to do them myself. :-)
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I love the ceramics......no break dust and IMHO they last just as long as all the rest. I have the ceramics on both my vehicles.
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yup. sad what shops charge to do simple pad changes when all you need are simply hand tools.
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I was kinda thinking about these for the front.
The backs are like new, and they don't make noise, so I probably won't mess with them at all.
Since I got the rotors turned, I can hear the right front doing a little whining.
Rather than letting them hog up the rotors, I might as well change them now, I was thinking.
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You don't have to bleed the breaks...just compress the piston on the caliper with a c-clamp...U might have a little break fluid come out of the top of your break fluid res but you can top it off when done...very easy and you save a bunch of coin.



http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...ll&totalPages=[I@1eda25&currentPage=1&vehicleNValue=&navValue=144 01233&parentId=44-0&fromString=&fromWhere=null&filterByKeyWord=&cate goryNValue=&categoryDisplayName=Brakes+%26+Tractio n+Control&_requestid=315238

I would buy the duralast DG182 for $38.99
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I was reading and the guys get all excited about backing up caliper fluid into the abs system cause it can screw them up?
I'm not scared, but I'd just as soon beeed when I compress the calipers and just top off the fluid.
Make any sense?
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Agreed. This is what I do.
A c clamp works great to compress the piston.
I'd help you but your kinda far away.

I've. Nver bled mine.
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Not sure why it would screw anything up...it's just fluid...I would go c-clamp, $40 pads, and spend the other $260 on cigars. :-)
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On my old car I got tired of all the brake dust. I asked my Dad (mechanic) what to do, and he said to install Akebono brake pads on it.

He put them on and they were great.
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I'm gonna go that way, c-clamp wise, but I'm gonna spend a little more money for pads that won't eat my rotors. :-)
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Plus cheap pads will probably squeal. I always buy better pads for that reason.
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That'd drive me out of my mind. :-)
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Use a few gurkhas... :-)
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