These are the three most common troubleshooting tips for setting up your humidor using humidification beads.

1.) What are the dimensions of your humidor? (eg verify you have enough)

- Verify that the Puck-ifier is the right size for you humidor. The Puck-100 will regulate up to 1050 cubic inches of volume and the Puck-50 will regulate up to 405 cubic inches.

- 1 lb of RH Beads will regulate up to 5 cubic feet and 8 ounces will regulate up to 2.5 cubic feet.

2.) Did you properly season the humidor when you first received it? (Doesn't apply to a cooler)

- New wood will quickly soak up moisture faster than the Puck-ifer can put out. To ensure the best use, properly seasoning your new humidor is essential.

3.) Have you replaced the batteries and calibrated your digital hygrometer?

- Hygrometers can be off as much as 10% and weak batteries can and do give false readings. I recommend replacing the battery once a year and calibrating at least twice a year.


* Approximately 60-80% of the RH Beads should be hydrated to allow the RH Beads to absorb and excess moisture. (Wet RH Beads will become clear, dry RH Beads will be milky white. If you accidentally over saturate the RH Beads, simply spread them on a cookie sheet and dry them with a hair dryer set on low until they turn milky white and then rehydrate so 60-80% of the RH Beads turn clear).


To Properly Season A Humidor:
In regards to seasoning, it's pretty simple. Most people think that you should wipe down the interior with water and you're done but I DO NOT recommend this for two reasons. 1.) It does not provide enough moisture to properly season the humidor 2.) It can warp the wood in the humidor.

New wood will draw moisture until it reaches its saturation point, so to properly season your humidor, simply place a large bowl of distilled water into the humidor and keep it closed for 7-14 days. This will allow the dry wood to absorb as much moisture as it can hold. By doing this, you will have a more stable environment for your cigars and reduce the chances of the dry wood absorbing moisture from your cigars. Patience is key to ensure that your new humidor is properly seasoned.


Calibrating a Hygrometer:
Since the hygrometer is our only visual indicator for what the exact RH level is inside the humidor, I recommend calibrating your digital hygrometer twice a year and replacing the battery annually (weak batteries can give a false reading as well).


How to Test and Calibrate a Hygrometer:
1. Fill a small container with salt (milk bottle cap or ketchup cup works well).

2. Add a few drops of distilled water. NOT enough to dissolve the salt, just enough to moisten it. You want the mixture to be thick and pasty.

3. Put the cap inside of an air tight zip lock bag or plastic container along with your hygrometer. Then seal the bag or container. (Tupperware works well).

4. Wait 24 hours, then check the reading on your hygrometer without opening the bag or container (or quickly open the container and check if the container is not clear).

If the reading is 75%, then your hygrometer is accurate and no adjustment is required.

If the reading is not precisely 75%, then you will just have to remember to add or subtract the difference between the test reading and 75%, in order to determine the actual humidity level inside of your humidor.

For example, if your hygrometer test reading was 80%, then subtract 5% from the readings you get when the hygrometer is inside of your humidor to determine the actual levels of humidity. (e.g. a reading of 70% inside your humidor equals an actual humidity level of 65%).

Writing the +/- percentage on a piece of tape or small post it note and affixing it to the hygrometer works well.


How do I calculate what size Puck-ifier™ or how many RH Beads™ I will need?

To calculate the volume, simply follow this formula:
Multiply the length in inches X width in inches X height in inches
(ex: 10 in. x 10 in. x 10 in. = 1000 cu. in.)
1 oz = 540 cu. in.
2 oz = 1080 cu. in.
3 oz = 1620 cu. in.
4 oz = 2160 cu. in.
5 oz = 2700 cu. in.
6 oz = 3240 cu. in.
7 oz = 3780 cu. in.
8 oz = 4320 cu. in.
9 oz = 4860 cu. in.
10 oz = 5400 cu. in.
11 oz = 5940 cu. in.
12 oz = 6480 cu. in.
13 oz = 7020 cu. in.
14 oz = 7560 cu. in.
15 oz = 8100 cu. in.
16 oz = 8640 cu. in.

The Puck-ifer 50 will regulate up to 405 cubic inches and the Puck-ifier 100 will regulate up to 1050 cubic inches of volume.


Why are existing humidification products inferior to the Puck-ifier™ & RH Beads™?

Most humidifiers use a green foam called "floral foam". These products have no regulatory properties what-so-ever. They simply add moisture (humidity) into the air which often creates conditions that are too humid.

There are also "envelope" style humidifiers that utilize a salt solution. The problem with these products is that they dry out quickly and need regular replacing which can be very costly.

Some humidifiers contain a crystallized desiccant gel that is impregnated with propylene glycol (PG). As the end user continues to add water to the product, the regulatory properties are washed away entirely, rendering the gel useless.

The Puck-ifier™ & RH Beads™ both absorbs and releases water vapor and for many, many, many years (when used properly).


How are the Puck-ifier™ & RH Beads™ different from existing products on the market, like "humidification gels", "crystal humidifiers" and tubes with crystals?

Unlike the Puck-ifier™ & RH Beads™, existing products on the market, like "humidification gels" and tubes are filled with absorbent polymer crystals, that are merely impregnated with propylene glycol (PG). This solution will help emit water vapor, often times too much humidity but will not absorb excess water vapor to reduce levels of relative humidity.

Also, because these products are impregnated with PG, as the user adds distilled water to reactivate the product, the PG is eventually washed away entirely...rendering the product useless. These products have a finite lifespan and need to be replaced over time. Puck-ifier™ & RH Beads™ will last a LIFETIME.

The Puck-ifier™ & RH Beads™ has been scientifically engineered to BOTH absorb and release water vapor to precisely regulate relative humidity levels in a closed container. This same technology is utilized by both the Smithsonian Institute and the National Archives to protect our nation's most treasured documents.

The existing products also require the depletion of valuable humidor space. None of the products are designed for mounting to the interior of the lid or to side walls of humidors.

This is why Puck-ifier™ & RH Beads™ is the most superior product on the market!


Are RH Beads™ the same as silica gel?

NO! Desiccant gels are specifically designed to ONLY absorb excess moisture in order to lower humidity levels. They do nothing to actually regulate relative humidity! The RH Beads™ are engineered to BOTH absorb and release water vapor to maintain a precise level of relative humidity that is CRITICAL to cigar storage. The is NOTHING available even remotely similar to the RH Beads™.


The relative humidity in my humidor is too high or too low, will the Puck-ifier™ & RH Beads™ help?

Absolutely! The Puck-ifier™ & RH Beads™ are engineered to both absorb AND release water vapor in order to maintain a precise level of relative humidity.


How long will the Puck-ifier™ & RH Beads™ last?

If used properly, the RH Beads™ will last a lifetime!

Other products will dry out and need to be replaced over time (most within a few months).


How will I know when to re-hydrate the Puck-ifier™ & RH Beads™?

Completely dry RH Beads™ will turn milky white. Hydrated RH Beads™ will become clear in nature.


Do I need to use Propylene Glycol (a.k.a. PG, Humidifier Solution, 50/50 Solution) the Puck-ifier™ & RH Beads™?

NO! This solution will also clog the pours of the RH Beads™ and has no added benefit since the RH Beads™ are more effective than those messy and costly solutions.

I hope this helps and happy smoking!

~Mark

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All beads are definitely not created equally. The RH Beads perform better (more efficiently) in the RH range that we store our cigars (60-70% range) where as others perform better outside of that range (see "hysteresis curve").

It should be noted that the RH Beads also cost nearly 2x as much as other beads as well. ("You get what you pay for" applies here)

I hope this helps

~Mark

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Just ordered some...need them asap for my 600ct humidor that will be here any day now! :-)
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Good topic, would (and probably will) read again!
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Thanks for this very helpful post.
Posted via Mobile Device
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Great information! Thanks......

:-)
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Great Post! One question, should other humidification devices be removed when the beads/puck-ifier are installed? Will they interfear with the beads/puck-ifier's accuracy?
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Thanks for this excellent post! I have been debating whether or not to goto these. After reading your in depth analysis, I am going to for sure!
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I've been using beads, including the Puck, for years and they are relatively low maintenance. A must have IMHO. :-)
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Good question. I've got a 25count humidor and the puckifier isn't managing the RH without additional devises. I wonder if I'm doing something wrong. I've got my humidor seasoned and the puck moistened as directed.
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Yes, the Puck-ifier should not be used with any other humidification device :-)

Just make sure that you have enough Pucks for your sized humidor

The Puck-100 will regulate up to 1050 cubic inches and the Puck-50 405 cu. in. (to calculate the cubic inches of your humidor, simply measure the interior L x W x H).

I hope this helps

~Mark

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Ok thanks but is there a technical reason why? Like I said, my humi is only a 25 count one but seemed to struggle when it was just the puck doing the work. Another question I have was what if too much distilled water is put in the puck? Will that hinder it's ability to put out humidification or just hinder it's ability to absorb it? You talked about blow drying the beads but is it ok to just allow them to dry out on their own?
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The reason for not using additional humidification products is that most merely release water vapor and a majority don't release to a specific level and tend to over humidify.

Given the RH Beads nature to both absorb and release excess moisture, additional humidification produces may interfere with how the RH Beads work.

You should hydrate approximately 70% of the RH Beads inside the Puck-ifer to allow for both the absorbtion and release of water vapor. Over saturation is not recommended as standing water in any device is a catalyst for mold.

Please send me an email and I'll go over the basic trouble shooting tips to find out why your humidor isn't holding RH :-)

I hope this helps

~Mark
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I just charged my beads... how long should I wait to put the beads back into the cooler? I'm using two small tupperware, if that helps.
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If they are charged I'm pretty sure you can put them back in the cooler right away. Afterall, they aren't doing the cigars no good out of the cooler :-)
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Once you add enough water to the beads so that approximately 70% are wet and 30% are dry, you can put them right back in :-)

I hope this helps

~Mark
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Thanks Mark.
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I have beads in all 3 of my humidors. 1 is a puck for my 25 ct humi. The other 2 are 1lb bags of 65% beads for a 100ct and 150ct humi. All 3 hygrometers read about 60-61%RH. (yes the batteries are fairly new) I can't get them to 65%. Am I just nitpicking about small potatos or should I give the humi's some help with those humidifiers that come with the humis? Presently I took them all out and using strictly beads.

I just find it odd that 65% beads don't actually get up to 65% in my case anyways...
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Verify that you have enough RH Beads for your size humidors. The Puck-100 will regulate up to 1050 cubic inches and the Puck-50 will regulate up to 405 cubic inches of volume.

1.) Since the hygrometer is our only visual indicator for what the exact RH level is inside the humidor, I recommend calibrating your digital hygrometer twice a year and replacing the battery annually (weak batteries can give a false reading as well).

How to Test and Calibrate a Hygrometer:

1. Fill a small container with salt (milk bottle cap or ketchup cup works well)

2. Add a few drops of distilled water. NOT enough to dissolve the salt, just enough to moisten it. You want the mixture to be thick and pasty.

3. Put the cap inside of an air tight zip lock bag or plastic container along with your hygrometer. Then seal the bag or container. (Tupperware works well).

4. Wait 24 hours, then check the reading on your hygrometer without opening the bag or container (or quickly open the container and check if the container is not clear).


If the reading is 75%, then your hygrometer is accurate and no adjustment is required.


If the reading is not precisely 75%, then you will just have to remember to add or subtract the difference between the test reading and 75%, in order to determine the actual humidity level inside of your humidor.

For example, if your hygrometer test reading was 80%, then subtract 5% from the readings you get when the hygrometer is inside of your humidor to determine the actual levels of humidity.
(e.g. a reading of 70% inside your humidor equals an actual humidity
level of 65%).

Writing the +/- percentage on a piece of tape or small post it note and
affixing it to the hygrometer works well.

2.) Check the seal on the humidor. A poor seal will allow ambient humidity to enter the relative humidity environment of his humidor. And vice versa (allow RH to escape). Additionally, opening and closing the humidor frequently will do the same thing.

A simple test would be to place a dollar bill 1/2 in and 1/2 out of the humidor and close the lid. If you can remove the dollar bill easily, the seal is weak and would allow ambient humidity into your humidor (relative humidity).

Repeat this is all four sides.

I hope this helps

~Mark
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I didnt see this posted so I thought I'd ask this question.

Can you get more beads than you need for you humidor?
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