might have to get me a couple boxes of these... and by might i mean MUST.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gczIArF6Uqg

its the new G2Research round. they are CNC'd from a solid piece of copper. they act like a hollow point but they have "fin" like pieces that come together to make the bullet. At impact they fan out and detach from the base of the bullet... insanely devistating and look nasty to boot.

after watching them against ballistic jell-o they look like they don't have as much penetrating power as a normal hollow point which means might be safer to use in a true home defense senario too. I'm always paranoid that IF i ever find myself in that situation (god forbid I EVER have to) that the bullet will travel through the walls. It definitely has enough power to get the job done and put someone down but I'd like to see this run with a piece of dry wall and ballistics gel on both sides of the dry wall, each gel being about 8-12" thick.

I will only say that many similar claims of ballistic performance have come down the pike through the years. Lots of those companies are long gone from the scene. The quote often attributed to P.T. Barnum about 'suckers' should be kept in mind. No, I'm not calling you a sucker for showing interest, by the way.

What do you mean by claims? I'm simply wondering as I'm newer to the gun scene and haven't been around long enough to see such things come through the pipe line. I do know there are videos of this round through ballistic gel but I don't how you would define a claim. In the ballistics gel it looked quite good. Had the same effect as a normal HP round would + more. Again though, I am curious as to what you would define as a claim in this situation. Not trying to defend this product or company but am curious and I appreciate the info about other companies that aren't around anymore.

Lots of reading to do regarding ammo, but all of it very useful:

http://www.ar15.com/ammo/project/Sel..._FAQ/index.htm

http://www.ar15.com/ammo/project/Exo..._FAQ/index.htm

Now I'm not saying that it doesn't do what they claim, but I would like to see more testing done. Till then I'll stick to HST, Ranger and GoldDot.

I wasn't there when the company did the testing or set up the gelatin. We don't know if the ammo was souped up beyond normal, or the gel of the right consistency, etc.

Lots of ways to manipulate data and tests. I think I'll wait a while to see how it stands the test of time. Until then, I keep to the old reliable and proven products.

I also wonder if you had the misfortune to actually have to use something like this, what the lawyers would make of it. I can see them arguing that you were using a round that was "boutique" and intended to do "excessive damage" and they could try to work the angle on "premeditation" somehow. Let's face it, in this day and time, people are always looking for an angle to shift the blame. That's why I don't have "zombie killer" stuff.

Not a lawyer, but I also don't underestimate the stupidity/ignorance/conniving of society these days.

:-)

Yup, the old round ball and musket!!! FOG :-)

Actually, I was thinking about Hydros and Sabres, nut .50 ball works too!

:-)

YIKES!!!!

http://www.slickguns.com/product/new...wners-drooling

I wonder if you can just take some copper tubing and a swage press and make your own fancy frag ammo.

Any thoughts on Mini 14s?

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What equipment is necessary to start reloading?

Carried one in my patrol car for a couple years, shot it quarterly. Really nice to shoot but a little more work to maintain than the AR15 for the average cop. Lots of little pieces seemed to get lost when they were cleaning them so we traded the minis in for ARs. I'd buy one if it was a deal, and I'll probably snag a 10/22 when my boy is ready to learn to shoot.

It depends on what level you want to reload. I would suggest to start with a single stage press. Much slower reload speed but makes you follow the basics before you advance to a turret press. You will need a powder scale, I would recommend a powder drop too (makes measuring the load easier). A micrometer, a brass trimmer a primer pit tool and primer seat tool should round out your tools. You will need separate dies for each caliber you are going to reload. Your initial investment should be around $300 to $350 depending on the press and the dies you choose to start. I would also advise getting a reloaders manual from speer or hornaday.

I started with the lee 4 turret press. As long as you take it slow, take your time, its fine for a beginner. Just do A LOT of research about your loads, setting up your press and then do some more research. Every time I sit down I still check my die's to make sure they are at the right levels/specs for my load. I'll run the powder drop a until I feel confident about the weight its dropping (I'll load powder, measure, dump powder back rinse and repeat 5-10 times before I actually start loading). Then I'll check my powder weight every 10 rounds.

I would recommend getting multiple loading manuals. I have a Horandy, Lee and another big book (don't remember the name of it). One book might not have a certain powder that the other book will or they might have different specs for each round. I started off (powder weight wise) at the lowest between what all 3 of my books said and worked my way up from there.

1) Press
2) some sort of digital scale or a powder drop
3) micrometer
4) Manuals
5) Primers/powder/bullets/brass
6) Bullet puller
7) Some sort of brass tumbler and media

If you are doing rifle then you will also need
7) Case trimmer
8) Case lube
9) Depending on the round a primer swagging tool (5.56 can sometimes have a crimped primer which you need a special tool to deprime)

edit: If you get a turret press it will come with a deprimer (for non crimped primers) and a priming tool already built into the press

my upper came in.

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all packed up and ready to put together.

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and have been able to grab 120 rounds of 5.56 in the last two weeks at local stops.

Thanks for the info on reloading. Right now I'd get started with .40 for my pistol, and possibly .223/5.56 as well.

I have a 16 in. flat top floating barrel AR with no sights on it yet. I can't see through iron sights so well any more and no sense in putting a scope on this. I already have a scoped 20" HBAR setup.
What ideas y'all have for sighting this? I've already done some research but I'm throwin' it out here.

eotech aimpoint or trijicon!

Bob i would start with the .40 and see if its for you before you jump into 223/556 or both. Pistol is easier to reload. The case brass for pistols won't expand like rifle brass will. As long as your OAL for your .40 is good to go the entire round should be good to go. You can save some money so you don't have to buy a brass trimmer and primer swag for your 556 that way. If you like/enjoy reloading then you can go get the proper equipment to reload for your 223/556. Unless money aint no thang then do both!! :-)