It is an unsmoked Kentucky Club Derby Winner... apparently they were pipes you send in fro when you collected enough coupons from Kentucky Club tins.
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Thanks for the help Todd! :-)
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Yes.

This is especially important when you get into pipes which cost you more than $4-7 a pipe. When you take apart a pipe while it is still warm, you can damage it - break the tenon, mortice, or even the shank. Breaking any of those parts is not a good thing. Image
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If the pipe is not warm and has been resting for several days you could take it apart to clean it without damaging it?
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Yes.
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He beat me to it.
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Thanks for all the help gentlemen! Much appreciated :-)
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If UF'320 has a Kaywoodie or some such, there may be considerations for rookies worth discussing here about:

1. stingers vis-a-vis pipecleaners during mid-smoke
2. threaded stinger pipes and the "only turn clockwise" (in and out) stem rule
3. grasping a shank firmly to reduce torque when removing a stem
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I just want to say thanks to everyone for contributing to this thread. I am looking at getting into pipes and something like this makes my world a whole lot easier.
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ALso check out mister moo's thread about new pipe smokers.
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Glad this thread's been a help to you.
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Okay I'm working part time at a local cigar shop (we sell A LOT of pipes, well they are available at least) So not to feel like an idiot and heck I'm quite interested anyways.......

1. What's the deal on the tobacco? I'd gladly buy a few tins of Dunhill/Davidoff if that's the "good stuff". Once I open the tin, what is the shelf life?

2. Do you really have to let the pipes cool down for days? Or no, because honestly....I smoke quite a bit. Probably on average ~400 cigars a year. Definitely one every day.

3. What's the reason some pipes cost $30 and some cost $400. (yes they probably go to like $10K but you get the point) What am I paying for ? I understand most of them are Briar but what's the deal?

4. Those house blends are they worth a $hit? My thought has to be no because Dunhill tins are like $20 for 1.75 ounce and house blends are like $5.50 for 2 ounces.

5. Corn cob pipes are like $10 at the shop, I hear you can start here. Do you need a different pipe for every tobacco or can I clean the sucker out and use it for everything. I'll never be an elitist or a pro, this would just be a change of pace type deal from cigars.

6. Do I need a different lighter? Can you use a torch? Does it ruin the pipe? Or just grab some matches and call it even?

I THINK that is it for now. School me, I really want to get into this. If anything just to smoke daily at work.
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WOw okay, books can be written on all of these topics but i'll give it a shot to help.

1. Depends on moisture of the tin when you open it but generally it takes a few months to dry out depending on the tin construction. Tins with metal lids will dry quickly.

2. Yes or no, its personal preference. Most people let a pipe rest for at least 24 hours b/t smokes. Some people cant because the only have 1 or two pipes.

3. This is huge- consruction (all parts of the pipe), materials, time, reputation, and quality are just a very few things that influence price, also hand made vs. machine made or mass produced. Stanwell, peterson, and savinelli are a couple companies tgat make very good machine made pipes from 50 bucks up to a couple hundred for the special editions. Then there are the hand carved pipes from artisan carvers. There are thousands of these guys out there making pipes of the workshops in all corners of the globe; I wont even name any cause theres a ton. You definitely get a well made pipe from the hand carvers and for the most part they are worth the money, but you can pick up a stanwell for fifty bucks and may smoke just as good.

4. Yes house blends can be worth a ****. Most places let you sample in the store which is nice to find what you like. Also buy tins online cause theres much better deals. If you pay 20 bucks for two ounces online then you got raped.

5. Cobs are a great place to start. You dont have to dedicate pipes to every tobacco but you can get ghosts from previous tobaccos. If you smoke a heavy latakia blend then a virginia you will taste the latakia from before.

6. Dont use a torch, it can scorch bowls easily. Just use a bic or matches.


a great site to use is pipedia.com, you can find almost anything you need.


I dont think I answered you very well but this is tough on my phone and it should point you in the right direction. check out pipedia.com
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Great info here! I have a few questions, never smoked a pipe just lots of cigars.

1. How much do you pack into a pipe?
2. What is the proper method for cleaning a pipe?
3. If I find a pipe at a garage sale how do I know if its quality or a drugstore pipe?
4. Pipe tobacco can just go into a tight mason jar and doesnt need a humi device?

Thanks!
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1. Fill a pipe, don't pack it. Starting out with half-fills is easier for start-up smokers. When filled the pipe should offer a slight, not great, draw resistance. Gravity fill loose to the top and push it down halfway; make a gentle wad of tobacco that fills the pipe to the top and push that down, evenly, halfway. It oughta give you a half filled pipe with a very easy draw. Light the whole top; puff gently a few time; tobacco will expand and poof up and probably go out in a minute or so (which is good); tamp gently down to create light draw resistance, relight. If you are tamperless, a golf tee or a roofing nail makes a good tamper/pipe tool, quick. Etc. etc. etc.

2.

3.

4. Yes.
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2. If your just cleaning it after you smoke it run a pipe cleaner through the stem and then bend it in half and run it around the inside of the bowl. If it's a grungy old used pipe, you can use sandpaper, and a Magic Eraser, on the stem, Magic Eraser on the pipe, and a ton of pipe cleaners and neutral alcohol.

3. One of the great things about pipes are you don't need a premium pipe to get a premium smoke. As long as it doesn't have a dinky little bowl, and you check to see that the hole in the bottom is actually at the bottom of the pipe, and not too high off the bottom will go a long way to having a good smoker, after that you'll have to burn a couple bowl and see what you think. Each pipe has it's own personality, and a lot of time it's difficult to tell what will smoke well just by looking at it. I've got a couple mass produced pipes that I bought brand new for less than $30 that smoke just as well as pipe that cost over $100.
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Great info guys, THANKS!
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Now I have to find a tobacconist near me. I looked at so many pipes online, don't want anything too cheap but don't want to blow my load on something I may not like. Would starting out with a cob be smart or would it be better to get something a little better? What is a good tamper? This is exciting, mauahahahah, lol The wife's gonna kill me, already b@#$%s when I bring cigars home.
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Is there somewhere on CA that you can buy estate pipes? I keep reading that people purchase used items on here but I can't for the life of me figure out where, lol.
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Starting on a cob would probably be best until you know for sure you're going to enjoy smoking a pipe. A good cob can be found at a B&M for ~$7. Pipe tobacco is also much cheaper than cigars so try to use that line to soften the blow to your wife :-) . After you know that you enjoy pipe smoking start looking into a good briar, possibly a meerschaum if you want to start off that high. I got my first pipe as a gift from Mr. Moo here, but the first pipe I bought myself was a $70 Chacom. Another thing to consider is whether you want a curved stem or a straight stem, but after picking up a cob it should be easier to decide. Personally, I'm a curved stem guy since I find them easier to clench, but a lot of people also like their straight stems. Its a matter of preference, but generally with a straight stem you'll be holding onto the pipe more than you would a curved stem which is easier to clench. Don't worry too much about the tamp, but if you want something decent pick up one of the cheaper Czech Tools(it should only cost ~$3) wherever you buy from. I still use my freebie(which we charge $1.50 for at work) aluminum tamp. The only benefit of a Czech over a regular ol' tamp is they have a small poker so that if the bowl becomes too tight part of the way through your smoke you can loosen it up while its still hot and lit, you can't really do that with a regular tamper.

Oh and a little further explanation on meerschaum in case you haven't heard it before:
Meerschaum is essentially a type of clay that can be carved and used for pipe smoking. The main advantage of a meerschaum is that unlike briar pipes, you can smoke 5 bowls a night for the life of the pipe without worrying about burning it out. A briar can burn out if you average multiple bowls of tobacco per night. One of the disadvantages is that you do have to be more careful in cleaning the bowl as scraping the sides of the bowl can damage the pipe. Also, meerschaum tends to discolor over time if you hold the pipe in your hands. A caviat to that is that I've heard of people who buy a meerschaum, and then while smoking another pipe(preferably a briar with a thick bowl), blow through their lit pipe while holding the meerschaum right above, essentially staining the meerschaum a brownish greyish redish color, that can actually be confused with briars, so you have what appears to be a carved briar pipe.
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