I just looked it up on the awful Tenecor website. It is a twelve gal. hexagon with a "Backpack" skimmer. No filter, really. I do an exchange of half the water with the big tank every month or so. It is underlit with 2x dual 9watt CFs. There are two ocillaris clowns in there. One is just a blur in the pic. The big one is called "Killer". It especially doesn't like rings.
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.5 ammonia
5 Nitrates
1 Nitrites
1.022 Salinity

in the cure tank. Got my live sand today. Gonna buy my RO tomarrow. Should I wait till its completly at 0 ammonia before i set up the display tank?
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IMO, yes. Let it fully cycle and you'll have less issues in the long run. Ammonia and nitrites should be 0. Also, if you are going to be keeping corals move the salinity to 1.025 I tried corals with the salinity in the low 20's and in the mid 20's. They seem much happier (growth and color) with the higher salinity. Also use a refractometer, or if you are using a swing arm or floating hydrometer get it calibrated from someone that has a refractometer.
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Got it. Just ordered a refractometer today along with a bunch o other stuff from Dr. Foster smith today. The Guy at the LFS calibrated my swing arm hydrometer with his refractometer.

Its hard to look at this empty tank and not want to fill it up. but I figure the more patient I am and take the time to do it right, the better results ill end up with but man its hard...

Thanks for being patient with me and all my questions. Im pretty sure im buggin everybody, but hey more knowledge is a good thing! :-)

michigan Reefers has been a treasure trove of info too.
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The black clowns are very cool. I will be adding a pair to my 90 after I get that Maroon out. Hes one mean MFER! Other than that If they are in fact breading you would have to ahve a major breeding rig to successfully raise them.
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You're not bugging anyone at all. Not by any means. :-)
Thank YOU for allowing everyone to help. That's what this thread is for. :-)
I'm excited to see how everything goes. Keep us posted and keep the pictures coming!!!
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Hey Steve, when do we get some pics? :-)
I should say thanks for costing me money. Now I have to get a refractometer and I don't even know what one is. :-)
On my way to ebay right now...
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Here is a growth shot of my maroon clown over 5 months.

5 months ago
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NOW
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I agree the corals will do much better with the higher salinity.

Flipside on high salinity is the impact to the fish.
Not many know that fish, although they live in salt water, have their system designed to filter out the salt water via their organs and their slime coat, in essence processing final water as non salt water or very limited salt water.
The higher the salinity, the tougher it is for them to combat parasites and diseases.
Also, parasites thrive on higher salinity so pests lik ick, flukes and other nasty ones will be tough to combat (folks - always use a hospital tank and quarantine and you minimize concerns).

I actually experimented on low salinity and while the corals didn't do well, the fish only system that was maintained at 1.12 for 12 months did quite well. In fact, they lived quite care free as they seemed less "stressed" for a better word. I now keep my fish only system pictured in this thread at 1.016-1.019 on average (when I remember to take a reading). Wouldn't do that for a reef system though.
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A few months ago I had a power failure which caused a crash due to high nitrates. I lost my shrimp and two fish. I did an emergency water change but the salinity ended up much lower because the indicator in my floating hygrometer had slipped, causing bad readings. The remaining fish recovered quickly. The coral got stressed but are doing all right now. I keep the tank at 1.023. You can check your hygrometer quickly using pure water = 1.000.
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Short term power failures generally can be survived well via air stones.
Use many of them, not just one.
Oxygen, or better yet the lack thereof, is the biggest killer, not the chemistry.
In Florida, that is a regular occurrence for us.
I now have a generator that is dedicated to my tank and my tank only.

Something I learned that worked well prior to having the generator is the "manual" filtration method. You basically manually circulate water from the tank, via the filtration system. I would pull water from the wet dry sump and dump back it in the tank, causing water from the tank to flow back down to the wet dry, where the bacteria was, mainly to keep that bacteria from crashing. When power was restored, the tank would clear up within hours.
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The power went out in the middle of the night. It could have been the O2 levels but only the shrimp and two small fish died and the big tang was stunned but recovered quickly. The clowns and damsels were unaffected. I have a whole house generator but it needs to be manually switched over and started. Our power can be out for days here, too. I have bought an automatic backup generator but a major rewiring has to be done to hook it up. $$$
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You can do it all for $10 each.
Buy yourself the battery operated air pumps that have a plug into the AC. You turn them on and as long as they sense power, they don't work. The second the power goes out, they turn on.
I keep them in my tank at all times.

Here is the info:
Penn-Plax
Silent-Air
B11
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I think they are cool also but he is the terrorist in my tank whenever I put my hands in there.


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I used to have one too. Unfortunately When my small tank crashed I lost my mated pair. It was a black occy and a normal occy. RIP little guys.

Image
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Just make sure the refractometer is calibrated also. Some calibrate with RO water (should read 0) or you can calibrate with NaCl solution that is 35%.

Pictures will come in due time. I miss my sps and am switching my 50 back to sps. I guess I should take pics of the way it is now:-)
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Wow!
Your pair looks just like mine.
My other one is a standard clown.

Here she is.

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I have an RO unit and a tester for the RO water, so that'd be good.
Yes, you should take pics. Now. :-)
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Good info, thanks.:-) I've never heard of these. Either way, O2 or nitrates, these will help.
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The nitrates will go up as waste produces and no method to eliminate it (no power to run filtration) but in a reef, with live sand and rock, that should really help dramatically in buying you time as it is a self sustained system for the most part. Oxygen would be the biggest concern and something rapidly depleted, which causes death, which in turn then raises your amonia, then nitrites and nitrates. I have experimented and found that high nitrates won't affect your fish. They can tolerate that. However, will impact the corals. Amonia and Nitrites? Different all together and definitely will impact everything in the system, including the fish.

In the future, I genuinely would recommend you do constant water changes in between it that persists as a problem to reduce build up until the power returns.

In addition to the B-11 pumps, you can also put a siren/alarm that chimes when power goes out to wake you up.
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