Bought my daughter a 2010 Chevy Cobalt. A buddy gave me a sub and an amp. I've done a ton of installs like this, but not for 15 yrs or so, and not without an aftermarket head unit. We are keeping the stock radio. I need a quick solution for the amp remote on wire. Anyone doing this stuff these days have an answer?
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Tap the remote wire to something like the cigarette lighter. But make sure to disconnect the lighter itself, so the circuit doesn't get overloaded. I suppose you could also just wire in a toggle switch too. Or maybe if you have a wiring diagram, tap into the ACC wire at the back of the factory head unit?

Or are you wondering about using a line out converter to get RCA signal?
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So, I just did a little checking, and if you can get that wiring diagram (or even list of purpose/color code of each wire), you want to pick the "Switched 12V" (The ACC wire) wire to tap into. This one turns on the radio when you start the car. So it makes sense to have it turn on your amp too.
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Just found this:

2010 Chevrolet Cobalt Car Audio Installation Guide

Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Red/White
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: The radio harness does not provide a switched power source. Run a wire to the steering column and use the brown wire in the ignition switch harness. Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/White
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Power Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Turn-On Trigger Wire: Pink
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Amplifier is located behind the driver side of the dash near the firewall.
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green/White
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Green
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan

From here:

http://www.modifiedlife.com/2010-che...llation-guide/
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I know this may be of little help. Just make sure what ever factory (key on) wire you chose will be able to carry the load needed for a amp. If you can't find a suitable wire, Run a wire from the amp direct to the battery and use a relay with any size (key on) power wire.

Good luck,
Brian
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Thanks folks.
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Let us know what you end up doing.

Take care,
Brian
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I'm going to find the brown wire on the ignition and use that. Also, the amp has line level inputs and a low pass filter so i'll tap into the rear speakers for signal. Keeping it simple and/or cheaping out by not buying a new head unit. :-)
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Helped a buddy put an aftermarket radio in a Ford Festiva about 20 years ago. Radio worked fine, but couldn't turn off the dome light....added to my growing list of areas out of my expertise (which is a much, much longer list now.)
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The Remote wire won't overload any circuit you put it on. It's Just a signal wire to tell the board on the amp to turn on.

As stated before just run the wire to the column and off the ignition. It's one wire and it's easy to tuck away and hide.

As for the input for the amp, you said you are going to use the high level inputs in the amp. :-) sounds like you got everything in order.

Also what kind of amp and sub if you don't mind me asking. Good luck on the install and hope its goes smoothly!
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Correct. It only acts as a "trigger" wire to turn on the amps internal relay.
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This is what I was assuming, but was not completely sure. Good to hear that is confirmed.
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:-)

Back in the day when we used to do this we used to tap in to the cig plug like stated as long as it was. It always getting direct power. Some cars now adays don't have a relay on the cig plug and will always get power.
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Just wanted to put my 2 cents in. Yes, the remote is a trigger, but its not like a 'quick on then quick off' deal. Once you turn the key that trigger wire becomes 12volt constant. It is just controlled by starting the car. Think of turning the key as a simple switch. When in doubt, please use a fuse. Also, a multimeter will help you find the correct wire on the column and pose 0% risk to the car's internal computer system. Just another FYI, if you were to say probe the wrong wire and send voltage, you can fry the computer. You do not want to even think about how much money it costs to replace one of those. Moral of the story, never trust an online wiring guide. Use a multimeter to be sure.
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Worked like a charm. Her two 12s and two mono Kenwood amps are thumping right along. Thanks all!
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