Just throwing this up there for now, for those who may be looking for a nice Aristocrat Humidor in the future..

This one is a nice cab. made by Bob over at Aristocrat... very nice with Burlwood inserts

I am in the discussions with Bob now to design and build a InWall unit for a addition I am remodeling in my house..

Once that is decided and deposit is down, the build will begin, and as anyone familiar with these units over at Aristocrat, its a 2-4 month wait time..

What we are trying to come up with and accomplish at this time, is a unit the is both T and H. The humidity is no problem at all. The Temp. though is another story...

while you needed vented at the back for the TEH, I don't want a fan popping into my Kitchen area, lol...

At the thinnest it looks like, I will need a total 18" depth.. We can use a remote PS under the bottom or top to the TEC, but still have to evacuate heat buildup from TEC..

I am a dealer for both MidAtlantic, and Cool Components, so my thought and I relayed to Bob, was air in at bottom with a cab. cooler, and evac. to the attic, for air movement .... Bob had brought up a good point of taking air out of the room, passing it over the fans, etc. then venting into attic, sounded fine and would work, but then you are moving air out of room, and not replacing.

Then I thought of pulling in air from bottom on unit through use of coolcomps cab. cooler, and exhausting from top, therefore keeping air in the room. This done all through a channel area...

Any thoughts from you guys out there?

Also, I wont be using the Central AC in the room, I will be installing a split unit for that room only, as I will be opening patio doors, etc. at times.... I just don't think I can do the new inwall humidor without a TEC, as I want to maintain a stable temp...
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I like the idea of an in-wall unit. So, will it be built at Bob's to the specification of your space, or will Bob actually come to your house as part of the process?
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It will be built at Bobs... Once I figure out the space I can use, I can give him the dimensions , and that will be what he has to work with.. Right now, with him saying I need a 18" depth, kinda threw the one area out of the equiation.. As I don't have that much to work with... There is a window in the way on the right side, which was a new install seing into the living room.. So I have to take that out or find another area.. but tough in that room.. On one wall , I have a double door custom ordered with a window on each side, to the left is another double door, to the right, is a single door, and on wall to out side is 4 pane double glass sliding door, lol.. I was doing a bar, and he said we could do in there, but then you hide it, with any stools etc. in the way..
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Sounds like a cool project...and cheap! :-) good luck with it :-)
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give you a idea where I started.. my house is U shaped.. Here is a pic of patio area (im enclosing) with the yard
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Here is digging up yard.. to lay a slab.. Slab is 6" deep, with 12" deep along right side and into edge closest to outside yard, and 6 piers 24" deep in case I decide to add a cedar patio cover.
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Got all exterior repaneled, and installed the 4 pane double slide door. If you notice to the right of the door, you see a built out area, from the inside that will be my liquor bottle display area.

Well it wont let me upload other pics.. says too big.. will need to see if I can reduce..
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Here is the Aristocrat Humidor I will be selling once I order the new one.

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If you constantly take air from outside the humidor and exhaust it, you are greatly increasing the difficulty of maintaining control of T and H. Everytime somebody opens the door to the room, your entering T,H will change and you will need very quick control action. Think it would be better to recycle the air, maybe just bleeding a little new air in.
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Ah that explains the windows and doors you described BP, lol I couldn't picture the room in my head, but since it's not a room yet and those are literally exterior walls it all makes sense now. :-)
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That's what I was thinking above talking about doing the cab. fans.. The intake would be at the bottom of the humidor, and exhaust out the top... Would pretty much be channeled from bottom to top.... Is this your line of thought as well.. I can sketch a drawing if needed.. Not that im a good artist, but I could try, lol
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yeah, too many windows and doors... If I was smart I would have framed up where the 2 windows were at, and made solid walls.. what was supposed to be a quick project has been dragging on and on.. Heck, the interior French doors, came in 3 different times before finally getting correct.. by then I got all kinds of junk stored in there, I have to start moving back out.. My wife hates when I self build anything, she says takes too long, and im always making a mess, lol..
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I won't take sides as I don't know you, but she's probably right :-)

So the windows will kind of look into the room, because they are on the wall? You should say the heck with it and get one of those outdoor sheds, through it in the yard and turn it into a kick ass "smoking room" with like two comfy chairs, a table and a tv. Of course then she'll definitely be right. :-)

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Oh Damn.... that's a good idea.. who woulda thought... LOL
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The typical T or H controllers are either on or off. They won't do a good job with a continuous flow. Before you commit this to an expensive humidor, why not build a mockup with some old plywood and see how your control scheme works?
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There are ways of ducting the Peltier AC units so that ambient air can be drawn into the AC units in the rear and the heated air needed to be expelled from the Hot side of the Peltier AC unit expelled upwards.

The two air flows [fresh incoming air and heated air needing expulsion] can be prevented from co-mingling.
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There it is.
You're only providing cooling for the peltier units (condenser side).
It'd be far easier to use a standard refrigeration unit with the condensing section outside.
Mind ya, this is my opinion, building peltier units into the wall is a very bad idea.
You'll need to allow access.
Then you'll need to duct cooling air across them.
I just wouldn't do it, but if I did, I'd simply box the peltiers between studs, allow access panels on the outside wall, and power a low voltage fan to pull cold air from the floor and blow it out the top.

If the unit can be easily rolled out for service, all that much easier. It's simple at that point. And then I'd almost be okay with the peltiers.
But not for me.
That's waffly, I know.
I'd just use proper refrigeration. The price vs. trouble is inconsequential, but I can do it myself, so there's that.
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